• Double Vision

by Belinda Cameron July 25, 2016

Cover

By Thomas Sweeney
Photographed by Hanna Tveite

Now that a twenty-year Martin Margiela retrospective is under way at the Palais Galliera, fashion's cognoscenti will have more reason than ever to muse on the influence of the subversive Belgian designer. From his sliced garments to his repurposed vintage attire, Mr. Margiela's deconstruction irreversibly changed how we perceive the clothes we wear. And a good many of today's most hyped labels, it should be said, owe a certain debt of gratitude to the enfant terrible, whose brand DNA has served them well.

MM6 Dress

MM6 Maison Margiela Striped Cross Front Long Tee Dress

But how does the designer's legacy shape Maison Margiela now, under the creative direction of John Galliano? For Spring 2018, at MM6, a sportswear-based diffusion line launched by Mr. Margiela two decades ago, we see graphic, neat-as-a-pin nods to the lightness and transparency of his early-'90s output, as well as to the capacious volumes on trousers he embraced from the mid-'90s onward.

The focal point is a medley of minimalist dresses, three of which echo the diaphanous white cottons of Mr. Margiela's Spring 1993 and Spring 1995 main-line collections. The first dress displays a paneled bodice that funnels into pleats on a skirt; the second adds dimension with a sprucely folded side hem; and the third, in a full-length T-shirt shape, hints at deconstruction (and the designer's affinity for tie belts) with an attached camisole that fastens at the waist. Tie details also appear on the straps of an inky-black floor-length dress that could have served as an evening number in the Fall 1995 show.

MM6 Maison Margiela Sleeveless Striped Dress
MM6 Maison Margiela Striped Pleat Front Wide Leg Pant
MM6 shirt

Rounding out the relaxedness are two pairs of wide-leg cotton trousers that mimic the outsize pant proportions of Fall 1996 and Fall 2000. One is rendered in black and white pinstripes and sheers out at the ankles for a feminine flourish; the other is cut in a vintage-y denim (a staple MM6 fabric), ready to be matched with the line's boxy crewneck tee.

MM6 pants

 

For Spring 2018, we see graphic, neat-as-a-pin nods to the lightness and transparency of Mr. Margiela's early-'90s output.

 

MM6 Bag
MM6 Maison Margiela Sleeveless Front Release Pleat Dress

The end result? An impossibly easy spring uniform grounded in classic Margiela tropes, each a knowing wink to the MM6 devotee. It all imparts a daydreamy légèreté that keys back to an excerpt from the house's original manifesto, written by Mr. Margiela's late business partner, Jenny Meirens: "a subtlety: that makes everything possible."

 

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Styling Gabrielle Marcecca 
Makeup Rei Tajima
Hair Takayoshi Tsukisawa
Lighting Design Aaron Joseph Thomas
Art Director Ashley Helvey
Model Liisa Winker



Belinda Cameron
Belinda Cameron

Author



Product Care
CARING FOR YOUR CASHMERE

After using your new cashmere garment for the first few times you may find small balls of fibre forming on the surface. These small balls or 'pills' are caused by some of the loose fibre tangling together as areas of your garment are rubbed during wear. Pills can be easily removed by hand or by using a depilling knitwear comb.

You will find that, after lavishing a little care and attention on your cashmere and removing the pills in this way, the garment will actually consolidate and soften in handle and touch. Like fine wine, cashmere will improve with age if cared for properly. 

WASHING INSTRUCTIONS

We recommend that your  cashmere is gently washed after it has been used three or four times. Cashmere knitwear can be hand washed or dry cleaned. We recommend hand washing, following these simple guidelines:

  1. Your cashmere should be hand washed in lukewarm water (30℃) using a cashmere shampoo or a similar wool wash.
  2. Gently squeeze the suds through the fabric, taking care not to rub, wring or stretch the garment.
  3. Rinse thoroughly but carefully in clean lukewarm water. Saturated garments should not be lifted before excess water has been gently squeezed out as they may stretch. A short, light spin in a washing machine will remove most of the water.
  4. Smooth the garment back into its original shape and place flat on a towel - dry naturally away from direct heat such as radiators or sunlight. Do not tumble dry.
  5. When dry, press lightly with a cool iron.

If you would like more information about how to care for your cashmere products, please get in touch.

Storing your Cashmere Ponchos & Wraps

To keep your wraps & ponchos in optimum condition I highly recommend you store them after use in the packaging that you received them in.